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I own an '94 Cannondale R800. My derailleur hanger is normally aligned however when I install my rear wheel and squeeze my Quick Release, the derailleur hanger bends inwards. Since this hanger has two fins that grab the frame and only two small screws to hold it in place, I'm afraid of excercising some considerable force to align it. That may break the two screws or the fins. What do you suggest for these early beauties?

Like so many others, brilliant explanation from start to finish, thank you for sharing

Tata sigma links are the worst, you'll snap your fingers in two before it snaps in. NOT fit for the name quick link FRUSTRATING 😤 to say the least

Thank your for a very well done and clear video - your work space and tool collection look really nice!

I need a new chain…. I recently replaced every component you listed, and my first ride out my chain busted and i went flying!! Was pulling rocks out of my knee for 45 minutes!

Decent video my only gripe is the pronunciation of derailleur. 😂

Best derailleur adjustment instructional video I have found! I now also understand how everything I'm adjusting actually works. Great video and seriously appreciated. Thank you for taking the time and care to make this.

No matter what I do my front left brake pad is always hitting the rim I have adjusted it in and out

Amateur tip here. If you need to take it apart, but don't have the special tool (his joining link plyers at 6:07 mark) to squeeze together, you can try to use needle nose plyers instead of the joining link plyers. But they will slip out constantly and you can hurt yourself pretty badly. Instead, just take a small piece of nylon string and thread it into the chain around the two chain pins (thread through the spots where the joining link plyers normally would go in), and tie the ends together to make a loop. Then tighten the string by twisting an allen wrench or some other metal tool until the links squeeze together to free themselves. Voila.

best answer so far, thank you!

The 109 method is better. It takes into account the crank length and the pedal platform height.

if you were to apply brakes, release and then align caliper, you might find this works better than just aligning caliper with pistons retracted.

Actually, cyclists know very little about this because they are only concerned with aerodynamics half of cyclists complaint of back injury. You should not be totally bent over or lock your leg out straight at the bottom . If you do the seat is too high, and you risk injury for the long-haul

Very helpful thank you

The best explanatory video ever! Thank you!

When I don't have enough tension it won't shift into the big ring, when I have enough tension it takes so much force to shift my finger nearly breaks 😡

Thank you very much for this video as it actually just solved my derailleur issue by giving the hanger a quick adjustment with a adjustable spanner also great valuable information and which is clearly explained!

I've been trying for four hours and have decided to go back to tubes cba with all the faff with tubeless

Thanks for breaking the chains of my ignorance on this subject. Full speed ahead Captain❤❤😂

The technique shown here is good, but it will not work with some tyre/rim combinations when the tire is new. Some open tubular TLR tyres are notoriously tight, they are also flat out of the box. You will need to start opposite the valve and work your way down to the valve, and you will also need to move the tyre beads as much into the center channel of the rim as possible. It will usually require a couple times round doing that before you get to the last 6-8 inches or so, which you then pop on with a plastic lever. Spray some soapy water (i use a househould bottle and just refill it with a bit detergent and water) between the rim and the beads. This will allow the beads of the tyre to move and seat - again with tight tyres it will be very difficult to make the tyre seat without this step. A compressor is easiest as it gives a quick boost of air into the tyre but a good floorpump should work, just keep pumping fast until the tyre starts to hold air. I also find it much easier to add the sealant through the valve. With valves like the Reserve Fillmore it's super easy.

they never show the back

Not sure if the chain is damaged or my set won’t connect. It looks simple remove a link and then connect with two quick links. But mine isn’t going in? 🤷🏻‍♂️

All the comments here about it being the best video are interesting. There are virtually no close-up shots, and when there are they're totally brief. Why isn't the ENTIRE video using a close up shot? Then, in detailing adjustments, again, it's a far away shot, going to only a brief close up, and not even showing in detail exactly which side of the derailleur he's referring to. It's like he's skipping over details as though you have experience doing this. I've watched other videos which smoke this video overall.

Your left lever brakes your rear wheel, which should be on the contrary

Ali express 6 quid...no probs

Thank you!!!

Cannondale hit the G spot

Came for the headset tips. Stayed for the haircut.

this video gave me the confidence to try rollers, thank you, Stu Bowers!

Dude Thank you so very much ive been trying everything to stop rubbing . It was driving me crazy trying to figure out what was causing this.

Good video. Thank you.

2 un-skipable adds for a shit video cheers

Followed the instructions and it worked perfectly. Thanks for very clear video.

Thanks for the information! Very helpful *

Great video, thanks for sharing!

Excellent, I’m ready to cut my steerer tube too.👍

Great information … thank u

Clearly explained. Thanks!

6 years late but can I also do this with an Ebike?

Cyclist

Steven randall winner as it says in the bible

Yours

You can make a noose with the cable passing one end through an end loop and then attach the other loop to the U lock. It's easier and gives you more length to work with.

Excellent video although you might have mentioned tyre direction too. (shame about the shitty music though, is it a legal requirement these days?)

Thanks. Took me 4 vids to find you explaining barrel adjustment on my front derailleur , even though you don't have them

on the gravel tire, if the hole is bigger for one dart, can you use two in one spot?

Great video. I started having knee pain during cycling and I felt like it was the position of my cleat. Question though, is the cleat clip supposed to be able to move when clipping in/out? Or should it be so tight that it doesn’t move?

過去はカンチェ，現在はログリッジ！

This method has pretty much been the standard since we ditched the toe clips and went with clip-less pedals. (I am an old guy) and I remember setting up my first Look pedals exactly like suggested in this video. Thing is the first clip-less pedals I had had no float for either the pedals or the cleats. If your feet wanted to turn in or out the system resisted, and your knees paid for it. That was why it was so important to try and position your cleats as close to the natural position of your feet. Sometimes you would get it right but not always. It usually took some effort to get it right. Now that there’s so much play in the pedals, is it really necessary to adjust for side to side foot placement? I would think that a neutral position would be better, as it would be easier to set up, and then you could let your feet go where they want to go. Just a thought from an old rider with a new pair of shoes.😂

What is the name of the plastic orange tool called?